weird wondrous words

by loven ramos

holiday with the beckhams

In my line of work, I sometimes have a chance to experience what my clients offer in order for me to able to get a clearer depth of the concept and ideals they are selling. This is especially true with Amankila, an ultra exclusive Aman hideaway built on the hills of Manggis in Eastern Bali, Indonesia.

We stayed here several months ago - on a hilltop villa overlooking the spectacular Lombok Strait...




Tired from the evening journey by plane from our prior holiday in Central Java, we arrived at the Ngurah Rai International Airport but had to be shuttled for around two hours to the resort as the east coast is far from Denpasar. Although it was already 11 pm when we reached the resort, the breathtaking set up got us back into our feet.


With the bathroom bigger than the actual bedroom, we were almost tempted to stay here instead...


Traditional Balinese flavours abound in the villa - four poster beds (was so tempting we dove into it the moment we finished our welcome cocktails), alang alang thatch roofs, ornate wood work and the sweet smell of coconut around!


After that long trip, the tub was our best friend that night...


We started our first adventure in Bali onboard the aman 16th boat which took us on a spectacular tour of the island's east coast...


We hopped from one island to another and did some snorkeling on a spectacular reef. The highlight of the day was the breakfast prepared by our guide when we swam back to the boat. The Aman service is so legendary that they even knew that I was left handed and a vegetarian... they served my spoon to my left all the time!


We went back tot he resort and soon found our way to the Beach Club below where Amankila's private beach lays. Although technically, Bali won't win in the best beaches category (I'll take Boracay anytime!), their culture and their other natural wonders truly make up for it...


East Bali is THE Bali that everyone deserves to know. As the beaches and the lifestyle of Kuta and Jimbaran are now overrun by backpackers, it is hard to define what the real Bali is.

Manggis, the town where Amankila sits is a laid back and culturally-rich heartland. We strolled around Candidasa and took a fantastic tour of a town where all its citizens are not allowed to marry anyone outside of its walls...


For dinner, we dressed up nicely and went to the restaurant where Amankila's signature and often-copied three-level infinity pool is located...


During dinner, we were all strung by candle light and the cool sea breeze was wisping on our faces. There were other guests in there. There was a couple who was dressed in full kimono attire (so cool!) but what caught my wife's attention was this odd couple... the girl, short, but voraciously sexy was wearing a nice little black cocktail dress, but the man she was with was wearing a plain white shirt and a pair of board shorts! Also full of tattoo, he seemed almost out of place from among the crowd as we were all dressed up to the nines for the formal dinner!

We almost forgot about them but right after the dessert, the couple stood up and when we saw them up close as they approached the table, we almost dropped our dessert spoons out of oblivion...

It was David and Victoria Beckham!

basking in central java & amanjiwo

Indonesia has a lot of facets worthy of remembrance, but so far, none has taken my breath like Central Java. This volcanic region is home to a handful of highly active volcanoes and is home to a fertile topography of tobacco and the endearing kretek.

We went to Central Java with very little expectations of its so-called architectural gem - Borobodur. Having lived in Cambodia for quite some time on the shadows of Angkor, we figured that we would have seen it all and Borobodur would pale in comparison.

But we were definitely taken by surprise...


The magic began the moment we arrived at Amanjiwo where we were driven from the airport in solo to a two hour journey to the resort. We were welcomed at the stairs by Javanese flower girls who showered us with a fragrant spray of rose petals and we slowly made our way up to the main circular hall.

Then we caught glimpse of Borobodur being framed perfectly by the pillars to the center as the clouds slowly revealed the monument right before our eyes. We found out that the entire resort was designed to perfectly echo the direction of the temple on the hill.

We were welcomed by Bapak Sean, the general manager, who also had a quick drink with us and gave us an introduction to Amanjiwo. Then, we were ushered to our room to slowly take in the views. Every single touch, scent and texture around us were given incredible artistic thought…



A symphony of stone and wood was present all throughout our rooms but they were softened by flowers here and there and an ethereal melody of Javanese gamelan music. We slept like babies on our first night.

We woke up early the next morning (and the next!) to be taken to the temple and the village by a local horse-drawn carriage called the Andong.
The trip to Borobodur was truly beyond what I had expected. In contrast to the thousands of tourists clambering up the temples of Angkor, Borobodur is still on its most pristine state... we watched the sun rise over the mist by ourselves...




The bastion of Buddhism in Southeast Asia, Borobodur has been a centre of faith where even the great Khmer ruler who founded the Angkor empire has been sent to study in the 9th century. It has been said that Borobodur has been the inspiration to build monuments even greater to glorify the ancient Cambodian gods.


We went back for lunch at Amanjiwo's spectacular Dining Room where our minds are still bewidered by our Borobodur experience - gasping on every single travel adjective cliche one can think of.

Although the entire Javanese island has converted from Buddhism to Islam, much of their traditional art and vernacular culture has been retained.


For a reason, the pool suite which was offered to us earlier was closed because apparently, David and Victoria Beckham were also there...


But then, a breakfast picnic was prepared for us by Chef Linda on a gorgeous cliff owned by a local artist overlooking the river.

Who would't fall for this?

And who wouldn't want to spend the rest of ever after here?

So far, no journey has given me so much artistic drive than Amanjiwo and Central Java...

enchanting ubud - amandari

Ubud for me is like Siem Reap – fast forward 20 years! With its amazing landscape of rice paddies, river gorges, misty mountains and a very dynamic town centre overflowing with Hindu temples, art galleries, designer shops, boutique hotels and restaurants, this place is a revelation – no wonder thousands of expats have fallen madly in love with this place!


We had a chance to stay at Amandari and was utterly enchanted by the resort...


Planned as a traditional highland village, the rooms are actually walled warungs or thatched houses perched on a gorgeous river gorge


Nature has full control over the resort as moss creeps into the stones


This two bedroom villa is the ultimate in luxury


The reception desk at night with thatched alang alang roof sheltering the evening rain


This is the villa where we stayed that had a pool on it but we didn't bother swimming at all because the water was freezing!


Our amenities on handmade ceramic vessels


Our own private lounge inside where we enjoy puffing our kreteks


Our messed-up bed (we plunged into it before even thinking of taking a photo first!)


Me and my wife (with her treasured Rafe Totengco bag) on the reception saying goodbye to our Amandari family.

Liv, the general manager and everyone there were so gracious and amazing... thank you!!!